Jewelry Metals and Materials
No matter how well the piercing is placed or how well it is taken care of, if the jewelry is substandard, the wrong size, and/or made of an improper material, problems will still present themselves throughout and after the healing. Over the first four years or so, the Axiom was in business, I worked with at least 20 different manufacturers in the search for the best quality jewelry at a reasonable price. A lot of work goes into creating a good piece of jewelry; it requires proper metals, well-manufactured ends and tips, accurate bends, and high polish finishes. Each piece of jewelry sold at The Axiom is individually inspected against defects and flaws, placed in a sterilization pouch, and then put in an autoclave to be sterilized. The Axiom does, has, and will always stand completely behind any jewelry that is sold here. If a defect is found in any piece of jewelry, we will replace it free of charge for up to one year.
Choosing a metal that will not cause a reaction and/or stand up to the abuse of the body is very important. If the piercee reacts to the metal it could cause the piercing to migrate or refuse to heal altogether. The jewelry we stock is made from body-friendly metals, then highly polished to reduce wear and reactions. We require that our suppliers provide the ASTM (American Society of Testing and Materials) http://www.astm.org information. The ASTM is the benchmark for metal alloys and testing. They are a non-governmental organization that sets standards and compiles information for manufacturing, materials, and methods of production.
See the ASTM# below. When "F" is included in these #s, it means that the metal has met the guidelines for FDA approval of materials used in medical products. The "1" or "2" that follows the "F" refers to the metal being of implant grade 1 or 2. Our jewelry is also solid, not plated or filled, because plating can chip or flake with wear and cause reactions. The only exception is 24kt PVD-coated titanium. The metal types we stock are as follows:
TITANIUM 614v. ASTM-F136, also known as titanium 6/4:
A majority of the jewelry we stock at Axiom is made of Titanium. Often referred to as Ti, it is quickly replacing SSS as the material for body placement because it has no lead content. Ti is a highly light metal alloy of 60 parts Aluminum and 40 parts vanadium. 136 is the best grade because of its total resistance to erosion. Unlike when titanium (Ti) is used in surgical implants, where the tissue is encouraged to attach to the implant, with jewelry, it should be of the highest polish to combat the porosity of titanium. When Ti is exposed to air or water, it reacts with the oxygen to create a thin, inert oxide layer. This oxide layer does not contain any traces of the elements(aluminum and vanadium) included in the alloy. This creates the most biocompatible of all body piercing jewelry. Reducing reactions to almost null.
Like Niobium, Titanium jewelry comes in an extensive range of colors. These colors are produced by anodizing the jewelry in the same way as Niobium. Additionally, this oxide layer can erode over time, just like with Nb, due to everyday wear. Titanium carbide can be coated onto the titanium to create Black-colored titanium. This process is called Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD). Since Titanium carbide is not biocompatible and the coating creates a surface or finish that is not smooth, it is not a good choice for Body Jewelry.
GOLD:
Gold must be 100% pure 14kt or better. The Karat weight is based on 1kt being equivalent to 1/24th of the alloy being pure gold. So if a piece of jewelry is 18kt, it is 3/4th pure gold. The lower the karat weight, the higher the percentage of other metals in the alloy, commonly nickel, silver, zinc, and/or copper. So, if the karat weight is, say, 10kt(the weight that most rings are at to reduce wear), then there is an increased likelihood of a reaction. Most manufacturers use reduced nickel or nickel-free gold. Whenever in doubt, request nickel-free, and the higher karat weight is best. Some manufacturers also plate the gold with Platinum to reduce nickel reactions (especially with white gold, which has a higher nickel content). At the Axiom, we only stock 14kt or better nickel-free Gold.
The fact that it contains nickel can cause reactions in some people with the gold. With white gold, it is best to substitute palladium (an inert metal of the platinum group) for nickel. Green or pink gold increases the chances for a reaction because of the higher concentration of copper and zinc used to produce the color. Plated or filled jewelry is not a good choice because of normal wear and bending of the jewelry during insertion can cause clipping and wear of the thin plating. Always spend the money and go with solid gold.
Gold is soft and porous, so not only can it lose its shape, but it can also trap contaminants. Additionally, Gold is prone to tarnish, which is a type of fungus that can cause an infection. If iodine comes in contact, it can stain the metal (just one more reason not to use iodine-based antiseptics). If a person's perspiration is acidic enough to corrode the non-gold alloys in karat gold, causing darkening of the jewelry and discoloration of the area around the piercing. Exposing the jewelry to urine can cause it to develop a rough and dull surface. This is caused by the acids in urine leaching into the surface of the jewelry and drying to form a hard crust. Discoloration can be reduced by surface depletion or pickling. Pickling is a process in which the jewelry is heated or submerged in a weak acid to remove the oxidation of the non-gold alloys from the metal's surface.
Lastly, many who feel that they can only wear gold may find Titanium or Niobium better, and even implant-grade steel, due to the nickel content in most gold jewelry.
Glass Jewelry
Glass jewelry, also known as Pyrex and Kimax, is an excellent alternative to metal jewelry. This is especially true when it comes to medical procedures that require the removal of metal jewelry. Since Glass doesn't conduct electricity and is, in fact, an isolator, it can be worn during surgeries and other procedures. Additionally, it can't be claimed to interact with magnetic forces and will not react to scans.
Glass jewelry comes in a variety of colors and styles, including Plugs, Tunnels, Weights, Hangers, Tongue retainers, Curved retainers, and Labret retainers. Nostril Screws, and Rings. The main drawback is that the retainers and other styles rely on O-rings or gravity to keep the jewelry in place. Therefore, this can make the jewelry less secure than other types of jewelry.
316L OR 316LV STAINLESS SURGICAL STEEL ASTM-F138-86:
Often referred to as SSS or Stainless, it is the same metal used for needles, medical replacement, such as pins or hip replacements, and medical equipment. Several stainless steels are sold as body jewelry, but 316L and 316LVM are the most suitable for this purpose. Note that simply labeling a material as 316L or 316LVM doesn't necessarily indicate that it is implant grade. When in doubt, ask for the ASTM info. The L refers to the alloy being of the low-carbon variety of 316. Since it is low-carbon, it should not trigger metal detectors, which are typically set to detect high-carbon metals (this may have changed in the post-9/11 world). LVM means that it is vacuum melted. Vacuum Melting prevents air and other airborne contaminants from attaching to the molecules in the metal. This creates more consistent steel.
The Axiom only stocks 316LVM ASTM-F138-86. However, the specific composition of 316L / 316LVM allows for very little exposure to the nickel molecules, thus reducing the risk of sensitivity. It should be avoided if the piercee is prone to reactions to nickel. If you are unsure whether you are sensitive to nickel, a simple and inexpensive test is to tape a nickel to your arm for 10 to 12 hours. If a rash occurs, it is recommended that you avoid SSS. 316LVM does, however, allow very little exposure to Nickel Molecules.
A good way to judge the finish is to look at the inside of the ring because this is the most complex area to polish. When polished to a reflective shine or mirror finish, the jewelry should have a white, not grey color. We stock only annealed (a process of controlled heating and cooling in a vacuum). This yields a more flexible steel and jewelry that is more resistant to metal fatigue. Thus, the use of pliers is not necessary for jewelry under 12g, which could cause scratches or marks on the finish. Also, the jewelry should be free of rough edges, pitting, and wire-drawing lines.
NIOBIUM ASTM-B392:
Often referred to as Nb or Ni(which is not correct. Ni=Nickel). Niobium is a pure element that, when an electric current is applied to the metal, will become anodized and produce an oxide layer on the jewelry. The jewelry is submerged in an electrolyte solution, and then the voltage is applied. This makes about 22 different shades of colors and color combinations. The color is caused by the refraction of the light through the oxide layer. The various colors are produced by the difference in the voltage applied during the anodizing. The thicker the layer, the darker the color. Black Nb is created by heating the jewelry till it is red hot and then cooling. This is called blacking, and black Nb will not fade like anodized Nb.
Additionally, Nb reactions are rare, and no dyes or paints are used; because it is a pure element, it is non-toxic. The main problem with Nb is that it is a soft metal (like most elements) and tends to erode from normal wear over time, losing its color. Since it is nontoxic, the body will not react, but if given time, it will erode to its natural color, which is a dark grey. A good rule is that the darker the color, the deeper the oxidation, and the longer it will take to wear off.
Due to its rough or porous nature (especially with matte black oxidation), it can trap contaminants. This can be combated with a high polish. Matte finished jewelry should never be placed in a fresh piercing. It should always be a high polish. Your jewelry manufacturer must be proficient in polishing, as Nb is a porous metal that can trap polishing compound residue, which can be toxic. At the Axiom, we no longer stock Nb. Lastly, it's heavier than SSS, 14kt, and 18kt gold, as well as titanium, and could contribute to migration.
Other Materials Novelty Jewelry:
Over the past few years, there has been an increase in the use of non-metal materials and sub-standard metals for novelty jewelry. Neither of these types of jewelry is suitable for healing piercings. There are several reasons, like the increased likelihood of harboring contaminants because of the porous surface, improper shape, the fact that most, if not all, these materials cannot be sterilized in an autoclave, or substandard metals are used, and the increased likelihood of the jewelry eroding, breaking, or shattering. There is also an increased chance of reactions to the metal and tarnishing. This is most common in Barbells for the Navel. In most cases, the packaging states that the jewelry was made of Surgical Stainless Steel, even though only the post section was steel. In contrast, the setting and ends were made of various materials, including Sterling Silver and chrome-plated plastic.
ACRYLIC:
Acrylic is a hard plastic that comes in a variety of colors and styles. It is often worn in large-gauge piercings because it is lighter than most other materials. It is also more affordable than other materials, making it an ideal low-cost alternative for stretching piercings. I do not suggest wearing plastics or acrylics in any piercing, regardless of what the manufacturer claims or the brand name. The reality is that there is no third-party certification of what the material is made of.
Additionally, there have been no studies conducted on the effects of these plastics being worn in the body for extended periods. This is especially risky when worn in the mouth, where the material breaks down more rapidly and is ingested. Since there is no clear understanding of how toxic the material is, it shouldn't be in your piercings or your body. Since acrylic manufacturers refuse to disclose the exact ingredients in their products, there is a possibility that these may contain PFAS, also known as the "forever chemical."
Lastly, often the main point of wearing plastic jewelry was to reduce damage. For the jewelry to work in a piercing, it needs to be rugged and durable. So, it is hard enough to damage teeth, gums, and the bone structure of the mouth. Additionally, products like covers and donuts that are supposed to solve issues with piercing, usually don't work at all. These problems can only be solved by removing the jewelry, isolating the piercings, or wearing the correctly sized jewelry.
OTHER METAL AND NOVELTY JEWELRY/SILVER
In the last few years, there has been an influx of jewelry made from both substandard materials, including lower-grade SSS and Sterling Silver. These are often referred to as "novelty jewelry" and are not designed to be worn in fresh piercings or for long periods. A large majority of these are for navel piercings and usually are curved barbells and created to target the explosion of Navel piercings. A good reference to what kind of market these manufacturers are targeting is something I saw in a recent catalog I got: "You don't need to know anything about body piercing to sell body piercing jewelry."
Since each person is shaped differently, changing the jewelry to a different type can cause reactions. When in doubt as to whether or not the jewelry is going to be a problem, ask your piercer. Also, understand that a majority of this type of jewelry is not intended to be worn in the body for long periods. Curved barbells with high-fashion ends are extremely popular, but they can also cause problems since the shaped ends (flowers, butterflies, hearts, etc.) require a higher level of skill to produce in Titanium and implant-grade steel. In comparison, silver and plastics are cheaper and easier to make into these shapes.
Silver has several issues, including reactions to the copper content. Since Silver tarnishes very quickly, if worn in a fresh piercing, the tarnish can deposit into the skin, causing it to darken or turn grey. Although this discoloration often wears or washes away, it can be permanent in some cases. Additionally, since Tarnish is a fungus, there is a possibility of infection or reaction caused by wearing silver.
Another problem with the shaped ends is the size or shape of the object itself. Always take into account the size of your navel. Chances are that your navel is not going to increase or stretch to fit the end. This will cause the barbell to be forced outward against the piercing. This can cause a reaction in even a well-healed piercing or migration. Also, consider whether the end has sharp edges or points, and how that will feel inside your navel. Lastly, if the jewelry has objects or a chain hanging from it, consider what it will feel like and the potential damage that could be caused if it were caught on something and quickly tugged.
Silver:
Silver should not be worn in the body for long periods. There is not only the risk of fungal infections, but with piercings in the area where the tissue is a mucous membrane, there are also the added risks of silver poisoning, also known as Argyria. Argyria causes a discoloring of the skin and will require cosmetic treatment to remove. The discoloring is usually a ring of dark gray or black coloring around the piercing holes. Understand that silver is slightly toxic to humans, but usually only causes this discoloring and thus is considered only cosmetic. For this reason, I do not suggest wearing silver in any piercings, but I especially advise against wearing silver jewelry in nostril, septum, oral, and genital piercings.
ORGANIC MATERIALS:
Organics are primarily used in large-gauge plugs worn in the lobes. They come in a large variety and are becoming increasingly popular due to their stretchable lobes. Although they are sometimes costly, they make a good alternative to metal and acrylic plugs. Also, natural materials are, to a degree, more in harmony with your body.
Hardwoods:
Woods can "breathe" with a piercing and interchange of oils. The foul odor that is common with larger gauge jewelry, and especially with Acrylics, tends not to develop with wood jewelry. Also, the wood doesn't cause the temperature changes that occur in other materials. Hardwoods are defined as broad-leafed, deciduous trees (angiospermous). The material used for jewelry comes from the heartwood, which is darker and denser than the sapwood surrounding it. There are a few species of wood used in jewelry that are on the Endangered Species list of CITES. These are Commoner (Guaiacum officinale) Brazilian rosewood (Dalbergia nigra), Mexican mahogany (Swietenia humilis), Carribean mahogany (Swietenia mahagoni), Holywood lignum vitae aka "Tree of Life" (Guaiacum sanctum), Bigleaf mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla), and American mahogany (Swietenia meliaceae). We hope that these materials are sourced from salvage or controlled harvesting, but always keep this in mind when purchasing rare woods.
Since the wood or the piercing may swell, it is best to have a piece that is slightly smaller than the piercing. Some woods can collect bacteria, dirt, and shed skin, and should not be used, especially those with open grain. Just like any type of jewelry, the finish should be free of scratches and defects. This means running down to the local hardware store and picking up a doll rod is not the best choice. Hardwoods cannot be sterilized and great care should be taken that hands and etc.. are clean.
The jewelry should be cleaned using a non-chemical soap or tea tree oil on a regular basis. Since people may have reactions to tree tea oil, which tends to dry out the tissue in the area, I suggest testing a small area before use and diluting the oil. After cleaning, it is best to oil the jewelry with an oil or sealant. It's best to use a non-toxic oil or wax. Food-grade oils, such as olive oil or peanut oil, can be used; however, they tend to turn rancid with heat and time, necessitating repeated re-oiling to prevent this. With waxes, try animal or vegetable-based. It is always possible to develop an allergy to hardwood or become allergic with prolonged exposure. This is most common in woods within the Dalbergia genera, or the rosewoods: African Blackwood (Dalbergia melanoxylon), Brazilian rosewood (Dalbergia nigra), Cocobolo (Dalbergia retusa), Indian rosewood, aka Bombay Blackwood (Dalbergia latifolia), Kingwood aka Violetwood (Dalbergia cearensis), Tulipwood (Dalbergia frutescus), Teak (Tectona grandis), Purpleheart aka Amaranth (Peltogyne spp.); and possibly Greenheart and Satinwood (Chloroxylon swietenia).
Ivory, Horn, Antler:
Since these materials are porous, they can absorb moisture and skin oil, which can cause them to crack. This can be avoided by coating the material with beeswax or a hypoallergenic sealant. With Mammoth ivory, it is softer than most stone and is flexible, which makes it ideal for intricate and delicate carvings. The problem with aged or fossilized ivory for body jewelry is that it absorbs skin oils, causing it to crack. Dall Sheep Horn Dall sheep horn is a semi-transparent material with an opaque white grain. Though Sheep horn tends to distort or bend when exposed to moisture or skin oils, it is more flexible than other organic materials, making it easier to work with. When polished, water buffalo horn resembles ebony quite closely. Since the grain will crack with exposure to skin oils, it must be stabilized before it can be used for jewelry. Moose, Elk, and Deer Antlers can be a good choice because it is less likely to crack when they come in contact with moisture and the skin oils, but they are softer and more prone to fractures.
